1. How long will my project take?

How long your project will take has many variables; such as, what kind of install is it (glue down, nail down, unfinished wood or prefinished wood), refinishing (does the floor have a bevel, is it currently painted, what kind of finish is being applied), are there any repairs, are we moving furniture, removing and replacing shoe mold, and the list goes on.

Our goal is to stay on schedule and begin/end with the scheduled dates. However, sometimes jobs are completed sooner/later than expected due to work progression and unexpected circumstances with the job. We promise to keep you informed of any date changes. 

2. What are your payment terms? What forms of payment do you accept? Is there a late fee?

Our payment terms are 50% deposit to secure your dates with the balance due once the project has been completed.  We accept cash, check or bank transfer with $0 fee's. We do accept credit cards but we do have to add in the 4% transaction fee. We are a small family owned business and we try to be as competitive as possible with pricing while still maintaining our excellent quality. We do not build the credit card fee into our pricing so we can pass those savings to our customers since most pay by check/cash. A $100 late fee will be added to all invoices that are 7 days late.a $100 late fee will be added to your final invoice is the balance is not paid within 7 days of project completion with an additional $100 late fee added per week until final payment is received.

Please note that If payment is not received after the 7th day and you have no intention to pay the remaining balance we will begin the process of filing a lien and possibly taking further legal action for which you would be responsible for all legal fee's incurred. If there is an issue with your floors we will fix it, we do not want to leave any homeowner dissatisfied with our work. 

3. What's included in your 1 year warranty?

Our 1 year warranty includes any issue that arises with your floor due to Hazelwood Floors work directly. For example, if we move your refrigerator for you after the project has been completed and we scratch the floor in the process, we will absolutely come back and fix those boards. However, if your dishwasher leaks 6 months after your project has been completed we can absolutely come back to fix the water damaged area but we will have to charge for that. Another example would be if the polyurethane finish on your floor starts to look like an orange peel, that suggests an issue with applying the finish and we will absolutely come back to fix that.

If we do not provide the floooring the 1 year warranty is void. We are not responsible for flooring purchased by the homeowner.

4. Do I have to remove shoe/baseboards?

No, you do not HAVE to remove them but we do highly recommend it if you do not plan to do any touch ups after the floors have been completed. We try our best to be careful not to scuff the shoe/baseboards with our machines or to get stain/Rubio on them, but touch ups are inevitable. We can remove them for you and put them back while also puttying holes and caulking the gap between the shoe mold and baseboards, or you can leave them on and paint them after the floors are completed. Stained shoe/baseboards are dealt with on a case by case basis, we may recommend replacing them altogether since they cannot be caulked after reinstalling. 

5. Why must I order 10-15% waste for material?

There are a couple reasons why it's necessary to order more material. With hardwood floors (both unfinished or prefinished), we recommend 15% waste. Many times there are boards included in the bundle that are too short (longer boards visually look better on a floor), or some boards may be miss-milled and cannot be used. With prefinished floors, it goes a little further than that. If you had unfinished white oak installed in your bathroom that was site finished and your bathtub overflows, you can rip out those boards and replace them with any white oak wood. That can be sanded/stained/coated to match. If you installed prefinished floors and it leaked, you have to rip out the damaged boards and install the exact same floor or it won't match. There is no guarantee how long a manufacturer will keep producing the same wood that you had installed. If you don't have any extra leftover and the flooring is discontinued, what can you do? It is impossible to find an exact (or even close) match, so that room will have to be replaced entirely unless you were smart and had extra for repairs. 

6. What are the areas on a staircase?

See that picture above with the "FAQ's" headline? There is a lot of confusion over the areas of a staircase, so let me explain:

A tread is the step that you physically step on.
A riser is the area between each step that you can basically "kick". 
The stringer is the wood on the side of the treads/risers. 
A staircase either has open or closed steps, closed steps mean there are no spindles, it's either surrounded by the stringer or a wall. Open steps have spindles that connect the treads to the railing. Staircases with spindles cost more because they have to be hand scraped/hand sanded which involves much more labor (as do risers). We also have to tape off every single spindle so no stain/Rubio gets on them or you will have to repaint every spindle. 

7. Will I have to repaint my walls, shoe mold or baseboard?

Hazelwood Floors has a great reputation for meticulousness in your home. On occasion, the home may require some minor touch up of walls, door areas, risers, baseboards and shoe mold due to the machinery being used. These touch ups will be done by the homeowner. 

If a homeowner does not want us to remove/replace shoe mold, baseboards, or if it's a staircase and the stringers/risers are not being sanded, our guys may put up blue tape in an effort to reduce the amount of stain/poly/oil that gets on them. This is done as a courtesy and we do not charge any labor to do this. However, we do not come back to take the tape off after the project is completed. This tape would have to be removed by the homeowner after the floor is dry. Our guys cannot remove this prior to leaving because the floors/staircase will not be dry yet from applying the polyurethane or rubio. 

8. Will my project stay on schedule?

Our goal is to stay on schedule and begin/end with the scheduled dates. However, sometimes jobs are completed sooner/later than expected due to work progression and unexpected circumstances with the job. We promise to keep you informed of any date changes. 

9. What else can I do to prepare for your arrival?

We recommend that the homeowner cover areas of the basement, below the room being worked on. This is to prevent any debris from falling on your belongings. Vibrations from installation or refinishing may cause debris to fall from the sub floor, on occasion. If your floor is older and has many gaps between the boards, we absolutely recommend that you cover the basement because there is a risk of stain and/or polyurethane getting through the cracks and into the basement. 

10. I'm refinishing the floors in my kitchen, do I have to remove appliances?

We absolutely recommend moving appliances and there are a couple reasons for that. 

1. Many homeowners prefer to sand the floors underneath appliances because you cannot always replace a fridge/stove/dishwasher that are the exact size as your current appliances. If you end up needing to replace a stove and the one you like is slightly smaller than your existing stove, you run the risk of the unfinished/old floor showing through if you decided not to refinish underneath it. 

2. The risk of damage to appliances runs pretty high if they are not moved out of the way. Our machines are incredibly powerful and when you are trying to sand up close to any appliance the risk of denting/scratching runs high. We are not liable for any damage done to appliances that were not moved out of the way.

11. Can all floors be fumed?

No, fuming a floor is a complex process and is only recommended on white oak because of the level of tannens in white oak. We have successfully applied rubio fume to red oak but it tends to cause a somewhat bad reaction with some boards that don't take the fume and certain spots/areas of the wood are left looking unfinished in comparison to the rest of the floor. This can be somewhat of a big issue if the rubio oil 2c that is then applied on top is a medium-light color as those spots may not cover up completely and therefore they stick out. We also do not recommend fuming an old floor, we have had much more success and 0 issues when fume is applied to a new unfinished floor. We believe this is due to the chemical cleaners that have been used on the older floors over time and causes a bad chemical reaction, such as cleaning the floor with vinegar or murphys oil. If you are set on fuming your floor, we will do that for you but we want you to know the risks that it may not turn out 100% perfect.

12. Is anyone really dust less? 

The short answer is simply no. No one is 100% dust free. It is impossible to contain all dust, we like to call ourselves 99% dustless. All of our machines are hooked up to vacuums, we also vacuum after each step. We also hang plastic to close off the rooms that are getting sanded to the rest of the house. That being said, dust does have a way of sneaking out. We try our best to contain it and vacuum trim, windows, base/shoe, but you may need to do some vacuuming after your floors are completed. Floor refinishing is a dusty business so it is inevitable that some dust will escape. 

13. What time will you arrive?

We meet at our shop in Avon Lake at 7:30am to load the materials and equipment needed for the day. We leave around 8am and head your way. We usually arrive between 8:30-9am depending on traffic and where you are located. Our guys will also give you a call when they are on their way so you have an approximate ETA.

14. How long will it take my floors to dry?

Well, that depends on the product that’s being applied to your floors:

·         Stain: takes 6-8 hours to dry. You must stay off the floors during this time as you risk creating footprints in the stain.

·         Water-based polyurethane: Each coat requires 2-3 hours to dry. Typically 2 coats are done the same day so you want to be off the floors for the full 2 coats.

·         Oil based polyurethane: 8 hours dry time. Only 1 coat of oil is applied per day.

·         Rubio Monocoat: I takes 24 hours to complete it’s chemical reaction and is recommended that you stay off the floors during that time. However, rubio is dry to the touch immediately after it’s been applied so it is safe to briefly step on the floors if absolutely necessary, but you must wear new dry socks!

·         Maintenance oils (for Rubio and other penetrating oils): Takes 6-8 hours to dry. You must stay off the floors during this time.

15. How should I clean my floors?

Maintenance will vary based on the finish that was used on your floor. For daily cleaning, a microfiber dry mop (like a swiffer) will do the trick. If the floors are dirty with mud, foot prints, and etc… water or bona cleaner will work. Do not saturate the floors, wood and moisture do not mix :)

If your floor was finished with rubio moncoat, use the rubio soap. You can purchase that through us or amazon!