How long your project will take has many variables; such as, what kind of install is it (glue down, nail down, unfinished wood or prefinished wood), refinishing (does the floor have a bevel, is it currently painted, what kind of finish is being applied), are there any repairs, are we moving furniture, removing and replacing shoe mold, and the list goes on. When we provide the dates for your project, that is only an estimated time frame as to how long we think it will take based on previous experience. If your project takes longer than anticipated, there is usually an unforeseen circumstance (finish is more difficult to remove, repairs were added, etc…).

Our goal is to stay on schedule and begin/end with the scheduled dates. However, sometimes jobs are completed sooner/later than expected due to work progression and unexpected circumstances with the job. We promise to keep you informed of any date changes. 

Our payment terms are 50% deposit to secure your dates with the balance due once the project has been completed. Completion is after the final coat of finish is applied (either polyurethane or rubio), or once the flooring install is done if you’re doing a prefinished floor install. On occasion, we will need to return after the final coat of finish is applied or after the floor install was completed in order to install shoe mold and/or baseboards, install transitions, or do any other necessary finishing touches or touch ups to the floor. We care a great deal about our reputation, your experience with us, and the quality of workmanship we provide, we will always return to fix any issues/touch ups to ensure you are satisfied

We accept cash, check or bank transfer with $0 fee's. We do accept credit cards but we do have to add in the 4% transaction fee. We are a small family owned business and we try to be as competitive as possible with pricing while still maintaining our excellent quality. We do not build the credit card fee into our pricing so we can pass those savings to our customers since most pay by check/cash. A $100 late fee will be added to all invoices that are 7 days late.a $100 late fee will be added to your final invoice is the balance is not paid within 7 days of project completion with an additional $100 late fee added per week until final payment is received.

Please note that If payment is not received after the 7th day and you have no intention to pay the remaining balance we will begin the process of filing a lien and taking further legal action for which you would be responsible for all legal fee's incurred (see terms and conditions below). If there is an issue with your floors we will fix it, we do not want to leave any homeowner dissatisfied with our work. Please remember that by agreeing to get on our schedule, you are agreeing to our payment terms as well as confirming that you understand our FAQ’s listed on this page. Getting on our schedule is our version of a contract and no signature is required.

Our 1 year warranty includes any issue that arises with your floor due to Hazelwood Floors work directly. For example, if we move your refrigerator for you after the project has been completed and we scratch the floor in the process, we will absolutely come back and fix those boards. However, if your dishwasher leaks 6 months after your project has been completed we can absolutely come back to fix the water damaged area but we will have to charge for that. Another example would be if the polyurethane finish on your floor starts to look like an orange peel, that suggests an issue with applying the finish and we will absolutely come back to fix that.

If we do not provide the flooring or the finish/stain itself the 1 year warranty is void. We are not responsible for flooring or any materials purchased by the homeowner. Additionally, we will not install any floor until the HVAC in the home is regulated and that we confirm the moisture levels are within a normal range. If the HVAC in the home does not remain regulated (by the homeowner or contractor) after the flooring project with us has been completed, the warranty and any guarantees are also void. For example: If the floor is installed, sanded and finished while the temperature in the home is within 68-75 degrees (and floor is within normal moisture testing range) then it must remain between 68-75 degrees or you will risk gaping and other issues with the floor. The reason for this is because hardwood floors are hygroscopic, they expand and contract as moisture changes occur. For example, when it’s warm outside (think summer/spring time) the floors have more moisture and therefore expand. As the weather gets cold (think fall/winter) the boards will shrink. This is all very normal, however the level of expansion/contraction will vary based on the HVAC in the home. If it is not regulated and the temperature drops after the floors are completed, you will notice significant gapping and other flooring issues.

Furthermore, we do not warranty any project where the homeowner or contractor dictates how a floor is to be installed. We will always follow our NWFA standards, but on a rare occasion a homeowner or contractor may request the floor to be installed in a specific way (such as installing a floor with no gaps against walls or posts). When that is done, the warranty on the install is void as well.

No, you do not HAVE to remove them but we do highly recommend it if you do not plan to do any touch ups after the floors have been completed. We try our best to be careful not to scuff the shoe/baseboards with our machines or to get stain/Rubio on them, but touch ups are inevitable. We can remove them for you and put them back while also puttying holes and caulking the gap between the shoe mold and baseboards, or you can leave them on and paint them after the floors are completed. Stained shoe/baseboards are dealt with on a case by case basis, we may recommend replacing them altogether since they cannot be caulked after reinstalling. 

There are a couple reasons why it's necessary to order more material. With hardwood floors (both unfinished or prefinished), we recommend 15% waste. Many times there are boards included in the bundle that are too short (longer boards visually look better on a floor), or some boards may be miss-milled and cannot be used. With prefinished floors, it goes a little further than that. If you had unfinished white oak installed in your bathroom that was site finished and your bathtub overflows, you can rip out those boards and replace them with any white oak wood. That can be sanded/stained/coated to match. If you installed prefinished floors and it leaked, you have to rip out the damaged boards and install the exact same floor or it won't match. There is no guarantee how long a manufacturer will keep producing the same wood that you had installed. If you don't have any extra leftover and the flooring is discontinued, what can you do? It is impossible to find an exact (or even close) match, so that room will have to be replaced entirely unless you were smart and had extra for repairs. 

If you are a visual learner, check out our YOUTUBE video here: https://youtu.be/ClM4uXNO1DE

See that picture above with the "FAQ's" headline? There is a lot of confusion over the areas of a staircase, so let me explain:

A tread is the step that you physically step on.

A riser is the area between each step that you can basically "kick". 

The stringer is the wood on the side of the treads/risers. 

A toe plate is the wood area that is underneath the spindles that are not on a tread (typically an up hall).

A staircase either has open or closed steps, closed steps mean there are no spindles, it's either surrounded by the stringer or a wall. Open steps have spindles that connect the treads to the railing. Staircases with spindles cost more because they have to be hand scraped/hand sanded which involves much more labor (as do risers). We also have to tape off every single spindle so no stain/Rubio gets on them or you will have to repaint every spindle. 

Hazelwood Floors has a great reputation for meticulousness in your home. On occasion, the home may require some touch ups of walls, door areas, risers, baseboards, shoe mold, or any other areas that are near the floors that are being worked on due to the machinery being used. These touch ups will be done by the homeowner. On a rare occasion, walls may need patched and painted.

If a homeowner does not want us to remove/replace shoe mold, baseboards, or if it's a staircase and the stringers/risers are not being sanded, our guys may put up blue tape in an effort to reduce the amount of stain/poly/oil that gets on them. This is done as a courtesy and we do not charge any labor to do this. However, we do not come back to take the tape off after the project is completed. This tape would have to be removed by the homeowner after the floor is dry. Our guys cannot remove this prior to leaving because the floors/staircase will not be dry yet from applying the polyurethane or rubio. The tape would need to be removed at a 45 degree angle in order to avoid chipping any paint. Please note that the tape doesn’t fully protect the walls/trim and sometimes the stain may bleed under which may require touch up painting.

We will do samples on your floor when we begin your project (or in the case of installs, we will do samples once the install is completed). We want you to see exactly what the stains will look like on your floor. The homeowner is responsible for choosing the stain color. It is imperative that you understand that the stain color is permanent. The only way to remove it is to fully resand the floor. This is a very important decision. We will do samples once, twice, or sometimes even three times in order to help you choose a color. Our foremen do not choose stain colors, they can only assist with recommendations based on past experiences on how the stain may appear on your floor (i.e. a white wash or grey wash is never a good idea on red oak floors unless you like the color pink).

Note: We are not liable if you do not like the stain color you chose after the stain has been fully applied. If you cannot live with the color that you chose, the floor would need to be resanded at the homeowners expense. 

Check out our YOUTUBE video on how to choose a stain color! 

We recommend that the homeowner cover areas of the basement, below the room being worked on. This is to prevent any debris from falling on your belongings. Vibrations from installation or refinishing may cause debris to fall from the sub floor, on occasion. If your floor is older and has many gaps between the boards, we absolutely recommend that you cover the basement because there is a risk of stain and/or polyurethane getting through the cracks and into the basement. 

In order to protect your kitchen cabinets, fireplaces, built-in cabinets or other objects/materials we do highly recommend they be covered by the homeowner. You can use plastic, moving blankets, sheets, whatever you think would protect them best. It’s rare that they get hit with machines/stains/finish but there is a possibility of damage to any object/material that is connected to the hardwood floors itself. Better to be safe and cover them if you want to avoid touching them up.

We absolutely recommend moving appliances and there are a couple reasons for that. 

1. Many homeowners prefer to sand the floors underneath appliances because you cannot always replace a fridge/stove/dishwasher that are the exact size as your current appliances. If you end up needing to replace a stove and the one you like is slightly smaller than your existing stove, you run the risk of the unfinished/old floor showing through if you decided not to refinish underneath it. 

2. The risk of damage to appliances runs pretty high if they are not moved out of the way. Our machines are incredibly powerful and when you are trying to sand up close to any appliance the risk of denting/scratching runs high. We are not liable for any damage done to appliances that were not moved out of the way.

3. We can absolutely move the appliances for you. We can disconnect and move then before the project begins, then come back after the floors are completed to move and reconnect. However, please note that our foreman are not plumbers. They have experience with removing fridges, toilets and stoves but they cannot replace any items if they become broken. For example, if the water line for the fridge is older and becomes broken, a plumber would need to be called at the homeowner’s expense to install a new one. Our appliance charge is for the labor it takes to move the appliances as well as for the liability if the floors were to get scratched as a result. We are not liable for any damages apart from the floors and for this reason we highly recommend having a plumber move your appliances

No, fuming a floor is a complex process and is only recommended on white oak because of the level of tannens in white oak. We have successfully applied rubio fume to red oak but it tends to cause a somewhat bad reaction with some boards that don't take the fume and certain spots/areas of the wood are left looking unfinished in comparison to the rest of the floor. This can be somewhat of a big issue if the rubio oil 2c that is then applied on top is a medium-light color as those spots may not cover up completely and therefore they stick out. We also do not recommend fuming an old floor, we have had much more success and 0 issues when fume is applied to a new unfinished floor. We believe this is due to the chemical cleaners that have been used on the older floors over time and causes a bad chemical reaction, such as cleaning the floor with vinegar or murphys oil. If you are set on fuming your floor, we will do that for you but we want you to know the risks that it may not turn out 100% perfect.

The short answer is simply no. No one is 100% dust free and if they say they are, they are lying to you. It is impossible to contain all dust, we like to call ourselves 99% dustless because it is impossible to contain all dust. All of our machines are hooked up to vacuums, we also vacuum after each step of our process. We also hang plastic in doorways that cannot be closed in order to close off the rooms that are getting sanded to the rest of the house that is not getting sanded. Doors that are going to rooms that are not being sanded must remain closed, we don’t hang plastic in those areas ourselves. That being said, dust does have a way of sneaking out. We try our best to contain it and vacuum trim, windows, base/shoe, but you may need to do some vacuuming and cleaning after your floors are completed. Floor refinishing is a dusty business so it is inevitable that some dust will escape. 

When sanding off a bevel, we typically will use the diamabrush. This cannot be hooked up to a vacuum and thus creates quite a bit more dust than normal. If you are concerned about dust escaping into other areas of the home, we suggest closing all doors and putting up some plastic in those areas you’d like to keep dust free. You can also place plastic over kitchen cabinets, cupboards, etc… 

As a side note, many homeowners schedule duct cleaning after the floors are completed in order to make sure dust didn’t escape into the ducts!

We meet at our shop in Avon Lake at 7:30am to load the materials and equipment needed for the day. We leave around 8am and head your way. We usually arrive between 8:30-9:30am depending on traffic and where you are located. Our guys will also give you a call when they are on their way so you have an approximate ETA.

Well, that depends on the product that’s being applied to your floors:

• Stain: takes 6-8 hours to dry. You must stay off the floors during this time as you risk creating footprints in the stain.
• Water-based polyurethane: Each coat requires 2-3 hours to dry. Typically 2 coats are done the same day so you want to be off the floors for the full 2 coats.
• Oil based polyurethane: 8 hours dry time. Only 1 coat of oil is applied per day. 
• Rubio Monocoat: I takes 24 hours to complete it’s chemical reaction and is recommended that you stay off the floors during that time. However, rubio is dry to the touch immediately after it’s been applied so it is safe to briefly step on the floors if absolutely necessary, but you must wear new dry socks! 
• Maintenance oils (for Rubio and other penetrating oils): Takes 6-8 hours to dry. You must stay off the floors during this time. 

We try to be as accurate as possible when we quote your project but sometimes your project may change sometime between the estimate and our arrival. What’s included in your estimate is exactly what you will be charged, unless something comes up. This could be added tear out or floor prep work, moving furniture, repairs, and etc… Sometimes things happen that cannot be foreseen, like tearing out ceramic tile to find out that the subfloor needs repaired due to water damage. If you plan to move all furniture or handle all the prep work for us prior to our arrival, only to find out you didn’t have time to do so, it’s not a problem and we will take care of you and do our best to stay on schedule! Any added prep work is $90/hr, moving furniture is $120/hr, and any appliances that need moved and disconnected/reconnected are $250/appliance. If you’d only like us to move the appliances at the beginning of the project (and not at project completion), it is $100/appliance.

The smoothness of your floors will vary based on what package you choose (Bronze, silver, gold) as well as your floors themselves. The Bronze package will be pretty rough in comparison to other packages, silver should be nice a smooth, gold will be just as smooth (if not smoother). However, some floors are more dry than others and absorb more of the stain/polyurethane and thus don’t feel as smooth. That’s totally normal. What’s also normal are a few polyurethane bubbles here and there, and sometimes dust, pieces of hair, or other small things might fall onto the floor after the polyurethane had been applied. These are things we can’t control and it will happen, there is no need to panic! Those things either rub off with time as your socks and shoes walk over them, but if they are really bothersome a simple buff and coat of that small area should do the trick :) If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of your floor, more often than not it probably needs another coat of finish applied in order to achieve maximum smoothness. The price for that additional coat will vary based on the package type, but is typically between $0.50-$1.00/sq ft.

Please note that some species, such as pine and maple, absorb polyurethane very differently and tend to be a little less smooth than other species. In order to ensure the floors are as smooth as you’d like them to be, you’d need an additional buff and coat as mentioned above, which starts at $1.50/sq ft.

NWFA standards are that you judge a floor when you are standing up and looking across the room. As you are looking across, you should not be able to see sanding marks from our machines. If you are crawling on your hands and knees, you will absolutely be able to see marks and the imperfections in the wood. It doesn’t matter if you’re in a $50,000 home or a $10,000,000 home, you will see marks and imperfections. Wood is a natural material, it cannot be controlled. Sometimes it moves, sometimes hair or dust or other particles get into the finish while it’s drying. If there is an imperfection in the wood (such as a knot or protruding area, or if there are exposed nail holes in the wood), machines sometimes can’t get those completely flat/smooth as our sandpaper can get caught. Those are things we cannot control. With softer woods like pine and american black walnut, they dent very easily and therefore may show more imperfections or sanding marks than other types of wood. These are 100% normal and are to be expected. If you are expecting perfection with your floor, you may not want to get a hardwood floor.

We are suppliers of the Vino collection from Legno Bastone. Check out our showroom if you’d like to see samples! We also will install other prefinished floors from other suppliers of your choosing. Most floor stores will not install flooring from another store, but we do!

Remember: Your floor is a natural product. Small gaps may appear from time to time during the different seasons as it takes on and loses moisture. There will be color variation depending on the grade and finish you have selected. In the case of under floor heating, please take notice of our special instructions in relation to the use of such systems. During the heating season it is often beneficial to make use of humidifiers. Not only will these reduce the risk of small gapping between boards or cracks in the wood, but will also contribute to a healthier environment in the house. For the stability of the floor it is imperative to secure a temperature between 63 – 75 degrees Centigrade and a relative air humidity of 40%-60%. When cleaning your floor please strictly follow the care instructions provided. Extra precaution does need to be taken regarding stiletto heels on all hardwood flooring. Remember the pressure per square inch of a stiletto heal is equal to that of the weight of an adult elephant. Always use felt pads under chairs or tables. In kitchens wipe up any spillage immediately and in bathrooms open windows to let excessive moisture (steam) out.

Prices stated on estimates and invoices are valid for 45 days from date of issue. Your invoice will be issued on placement of your order (deposit has been received). Your deposit will also act as your acceptance that both the amount and the details stated on the invoice are correct and accurate. Please take time to study them as well as the FAQ’s and Terms & Conditions on this page. Hazelwood Floors. LLC retains title on all materials until invoices are paid in full.

There are different ways to clean different floors. For the most part, use a dry microfiber mop for daily cleaning. If your floor needs a deeper clean than that, a water based cleaner (such as Basic Coatings squeaky cleaner spray, you can get this on Amazon prime) will do the trick. If you need a much deeper clean, typically for high traffic commercial floors or older floors that can’t be refinished that need a refresh, we can do Basic Coatings Tykote sytem + dirt dragon. 

For Rubio Monocoat, you will need to use their Rubio soap cleaner. Check out our youtube video on how to care for your Rubio Monocoat floors.

Price includes state and sales tax on material only.

Floors and other areas must be in condition to receive our materials. 

70*F room temperature is essential for satisfactory installation of all wood flooring (winter and fall months)

Prices stated on quotations and proposals are valid for 45 days from date of issue. Your deposit will also act as your acceptance that both the amount and the details stated on the invoice are correct and accurate. Please take time to study them. Hazelwood Floors retains title on all materials until invoices are paid in full.

We cannot be responsible for the following conditions after installation:

1. Separation, cracks, uneven surface due to expansion and contracting or settling.

2. Scratching, scuffing, fading, discoloration.

3. Water damage.

4. Conditions arising from improper maintenance.

5. Delays in delivery due to strike, acts of God, or manufacturers inability to make delivery.

6. Guarantee of merchandise to match samples, due to dye lot variation.

7. Cutting of doors before and after installation, unless specifically stated in contract.

8. Leveling of existing floors, unless stated in contract.

These items shall be removed by seller, solely at the purchasers risk and agent for:

A Damage to quarter rounds that are to be removed and replaced

B Damage caused by disconnecting and/or re-installing radiators, toilets, ice makers, dishwater, compactor, oven, stove, refrigerator, freezer, washer and dryer, television or stereos.

C Buyer waives all liability against seller for any dust from installation and sanding

Furthermore, if the buyer chooses to hire an inspector to inspect the work of Hazelwood Floors, whether that be installation or refinishing, only reports written by an NWFA Certified Inspector will be followed and be admissible in court. The NWFA sets the standards in our industry and we only follow their guidelines. The inspector fee’s are solely the responsibility of the buyer. 

The buyer hereby agrees that the terms of payment shall be _ (see estimate agreement), and that upon failure by buyer to make such payment on completion, there shall become due to the seller, A FINANCE CHARGE AT AN ANNUAL RATE OF 24% OF THE UNPAID BALANCE. 

In the event the purchase price is not paid in cash at the time of execution of the agreement, then title to the above-described merchandise shall not pass to buyer until fully paid, and it is further agreed that seller shall have a purchase-money security interest in all merchandise sold here under until full payment is received by seller, and may exercise its rights under the Ohio Commercial Code as a secured party.

Seller will not be responsible for (1) delays or failure in delivery or installation by reason of strikes of other cause beyond Seller's control (2) damage to moldings (3) consequential damages, or (4) insufficiency or goods where the measurements are based on plans submitted by Buyer. 

Buyer will reimburse seller for expenses incurred including attorney's fees, in the cost of the collection of the contract balance.

This contract constitutes the entire agreement between the parties and the seller shall not be bound by any representation, promise, inducement made by any agent or employee of the seller not herein set forth. Buyer specifically represents that no representations were relied upon other than those contained herein.

All guarantees must be put in writing.

Thank you for your order.